The Ultimate: Hiking to Dominica's Boiling Lake

Imagine walking up to Yellowstone’s Norris Geyser Basin hundreds of years ago. No boardwalks, no walking trails, no warning signs, no other humans. Now imagine a four-mile staircase up dense, equatorial jungle to get there—Dominica’s Boiling Lake, the second-largest boiling lake in the world, is kind of like that.

The hike in starts around 1,600 feet—near Titou Gorge in the village of Laudat—and immediately descends deep into the green. Your first landmark is Breakfast River, where you should fill up your water bottle and take a big, deep breath in. From here, it’s a 2,000-foot ascent up to Morne Nicholls, at roughly 3,200 feet.

Take another breather atop Lookout Point, and then it’s 1,000 feet down into the Valley of Desolation, where you’ll be crab-walking over sulphur-misted boulders, hanging by ropes off craggy rock edges, and navigating a floor of steaming, volcanic vents. More navigable ups and downs eventually lead you to a rocky outcropping overlooking the lake itself, about 100 feet above the edge of the water. Say hello to the lake, and then say hello to your thighs — now it’s all the way back again.

While some may try to tackle this hike without a guide, don’t. The trail is unmarked, and though paths are largely visible in the jungle, the Valley of Desolation is another story. It’s unsafe to step on weak sulphur vents here, and the hazy, foreboding landscape of steam leaves few clues to follow. What’s more, the guides are certified, educated, and will ply you with knowledge of the Earth and her mysteries—grab a tour with Marvin, and he’ll boil you eggs geothermally, a much-needed party trick to break up the slog.

Stop on the way back in one of Breakfast River’s colorful hot pools — your muscles certainly won’t mind. Take respite in the fact that now it’s a 2,000-foot trek downward, the second-largest boiling lake in the world always at your back.

Tips & Details

Technically, Boiling Lake is neither boiling nor a lake—it’s a flooded fumarole, or an opening near a volcano. In this case, it’s collecting water, which is then stirred up by gases escaping to the surface. The water itself is just a few degrees shy of boiling, but you’d never know the difference.

As made clear above, this hike isn’t for everyone. It’s advised not to start later than 10am; if you like to take your time, start earlier. The 10-mile round trip takes, at a minimum, six hours. Guides can be found by asking around Laudat, arranging one through your hotel, or contacting Discover Dominica—Marvin, or “Eggman,” can be reached at (+1) 767-295-0877.

You will get muddy; don’t bring your nicest gear. A waterproof bag is suggested, especially if you’re carrying a camera. Wear shoes with fantastic tread, and, if desired, a hiking pole (two, you may find, is cumbersome and disabling). The weather can change in an instant, and erratic rains are common. Leave your jewelry at home, unless you’re fine with it getting oxidized in the highly sulphuric waters.

Afterward, consider stopping at nearby Ti Kwen Glo Cho to ask your muscles for forgiveness in the warm, natural pools. Scrub off some of that mud clinging to your legs, or keep it on — it’s proof of your victorious odyssey, after all.